Don't go overboard- remember, your alternator isn't sized for very much overhead. A nice 55W pair of fog lights and a some HID converted driving lights will do wonders. Think about some good quality, but reasonable add-on lights. Adjust your low beams to shine out 40-50yds when you're not loaded. The light output of an HID headlight averages to 3,500 lumens which is. This type of light runs at approximately 20 watts less than the halogen lamp and is still much brighter. High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting is available in plug and play style kits using a 35 watt ballast. Give your adjusting screws some liberal lubrication. HID lamps are brighter and vary more in color.
Due to the difference in light output between LED and HID bulbs, I believe Avalons projectors better suitable for HID bulbs. HID headlights last for 2000-3000-hours, which is ten times lower than LEDs. LED kits last longer than their counterparts at 30000-40000 operation hours. In addition, HID lights support many colors, seven to be precise. Make sure your stock lights are in best order- no haze on the lenses, rust on the reflector, and aimed correctly. Both halogen and HID Avalons projectors have identical size and shape, the difference is in light bulb socket. While both are bright than standard lamps, HIDs have a larger area coverage. The LED bulbs that plug into headlight housings are meant to be position/DRL only. For light out-put, stay away from the higher color temps- stick with 4300K (6000K at the most) If we're talking about a quad-beam setup (most mitsus arent), then things are different- you could use an HID in the high-beam, in combination with a good quality halogen lamp in the low beam. The geometry of the arc often doesn't match the filament being replaced, so the light patterns are unpredictable. Also, HID is a cludge, at best for single lamp set-ups, as they usually use a damper of some kind to switch low and Hi beams. Exactly right! Besides, almost none of the aftermarket HID kits are DOT.